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Balsamic vinegar

Balsamic vinegar
TypeCondiment and salad dressing
Place of originItaly
Region or stateModena and Reggio Emilia
Main ingredientsWhite Trebbiano grape juice, Lambrusco grape must

Balsamic vinegar (Italian: aceto balsamico) is a dark, concentrated, intensely flavoured vinegar made wholly or partially from grape must: freshly crushed grape juice with all the skins, seeds and stems.

Etymology

The Italian word balsamico (from Latin balsamum, from Greek βάλσαμον, bálsamon) means "balsam-like" in the sense of "restorative" or "curative"; cf. English "balm".[1] Ultimately from Ancient Hebrew-Phoenician "בשׂם" (bāśām or besem, IPA [baːˈɬaːm]), the name means "perfume or spice", with the consonant sequence of the letter 'λ' and 'σ' deriving from Ancient Greek to pronounce the שׂ (ś) sound, sounding back then as [ɬ].[2][3][4][5][full citation needed][6]

History

The term "balsamico" in "Balsamic Vinegar" originates from the Latin word "balsamum" and the Greek word "βάλσαμον," both conveying the idea of something "restorative" or "curative." The practice of cooking grape must can be traced back to ancient Roman times, where it was valued both as a medicinal remedy and a sweetener or condiment in cooking. The story of this quintessential Italian product began in the 11th century in the small city of Modena.

The origins of this "black gold" likely began by chance, but it quickly gained such remarkable qualities that, by 1046, it was already renowned. The future Holy Roman Emperor, King Henry III, requested Marquis Bonifacio of Canossa—father of Matilda, one of Italy's most significant medieval figures—to craft this "perfect vinegar" in his castle. By the late 1200s, vinegar production flourished at the Este Court in Modena, with the term "balsamic" first recorded in 1747 in the ledgers of the Este family cellars.

In the town of Spilamberto, close to Modena, there is even a dedicated museum honoring this treasured condiment. During the latter half of the 19th century, the provinces of Emilia joined the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena took center stage at prominent national and international exhibitions. While aristocratic families cultivated a refined balsamic tradition, local peasant families began to blend it with wine vinegar, creating a lighter version perfect for everyday use.

This practice eventually led to the creation of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, a product born from a mix of noble heritage and practical ingenuity, becoming a versatile and beloved dressing across the world. Historically, in the region of Modena and Reggio, the vinegars produced in the houses were made more pleasant by flavouring them with herbs, liquorice, rosemary, roses, vanilla, or by producing them with different raw materials (trebbiano, moscato...) or procedures, creating over the centuries a widespread fame for "Modena-style vinegars".[7]

In 1747, in the registers of the cellars of the Ducal Palace of Modena, located in Rubiera, the adjective "balsamic" appeared for the first time, to distinguish a particular type from the many others present in the palace.[8] In 1830 this definition was further refined, so that the vinegars present at the Court were divided into "balsamic", "semi-balsamic", "fine" and "common".

With the birth of the Italian State in 1860, the awakening of the markets gradually aroused more interest in Balsamic vinegar, and considerable historical and bibliographical research was carried out on this product, which was quite successful. At the end of the 19th century, the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena began to appear at the most important exhibitions, creating great interest locally and internationally.

From a regulatory point of view, the first ministerial authorization to produce 'Balsamic Vinegar of Modena' dates back to 1933. After World War II, the economic boom led some producers, like Telesforo Fini and the Monari-Federzoni family, to market a different product under the name "Balsamic Vinegar," which was a mix with wine vinegar for daily use. This made balsamic vinegar common on Italian tables and began its spread to foreign countries.[9]

In 1965, further regulations on the use of the term 'balsamic vinegar' were established, and the first production regulations for 'Balsamic Vinegar of Modena' were created. In 1976, to distinguish traditional production methods from industrial ones, the term "natural" balsamic vinegar was adopted, later changed to "traditional" due to legislative requirements.

Protected designation of origin

The term aceto balsamico is unregulated, but there are three protected types of balsamic vinegar:

Many products contain Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP as an ingredient, such as glazes and other condiments.

"Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP" and "traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia DOP"

The two Italian traditional balsamic vinegars from Reggio Emilia (left) and Modena (right) with protected designation of origin status (denominazione di origine protetta in Italian), in their legally approved shaped bottles

Only two consortia produce true traditional balsamic vinegar, that of Modena and neighbouring Reggio Emilia. True balsamic vinegar is made from a reduction of pressed Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes. The resulting thick syrup, called mosto cotto in Italian, is subsequently aged for a minimum of 12 years in a battery of several barrels of successively smaller sizes.

The casks are made of different woods such as chestnut, cherry, oak, mulberry, ash and juniper. True balsamic vinegar is rich, glossy, deep brown, and has a complex flavour that balances the natural sweet and sour elements of the cooked grape juice with hints of wood from the casks.

Reggio Emilia designates the different ages of their balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia) by label colour. A red label means the vinegar has been aged for at least 12 years, a silver label that the vinegar has aged for at least 18 years, and a gold label designates that the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more.

Modena uses a different system to indicate the age of its balsamic vinegars (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena). A white-coloured cap means the vinegar has aged for at least 12 years and a gold cap bearing the designation extravecchio ("extra-old") shows the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more.

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Balsamic vinegar
Aged balsamic vinegar of Modena (three years)

These commercial-grade products imitate the traditional product. They are made of as little as 20% grape must (and not necessarily from Modena or Reggio Emilia), with the addition of wine vinegar, colouring, caramel, and sometimes thickeners like guar gum or cornflour to artificially simulate the sweetness and thickness of the aged aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena.[10] IGP status requires a minimum ageing period of two months, not necessarily in wooden barrels, rising to three years when labelled as invecchiato (aged).[10] As the manufacturing process is highly industrialized, the output of a medium-sized producer may be hundreds of litres per day.

In 2009, the European Commission inserted the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (aceto balsamico di Modena) designation in the register of IGP productions.

Condimenti that used the term balsamic

Condimento ("dressing") balsamic vinegars may be labeled as condimento balsamico, salsa balsamica or salsa di mosto cotto. For those products, there is a risk of creating confusion among consumers looking for the original Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, the two different Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO.

Condimento balsamic vinegar may be made in any of the following ways:

  • Made by producers of both Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI or Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena/Reggio Emilia PDO, by using the PGI or PDO as an ingredient. For those products, the use of the PGI and PDO as an ingredient must be clearly reported, i.e. "glaze with Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP". The Consortium must approve the label and the use of the PGI's/PDO's name.
  • Made by the same method as the vinegars, but by producers outside Modena and Reggio Emilia provinces and not made under consortium supervision. No reference to the PDO/PGI can be made for those products, and they cannot use the geographical names Modena or Reggio Emilia.

As there are no official standards or labelling systems to designate condimento balsamic vinegar, it can be hard to tell their quality based on the packaging alone.[11]

Traditional processes

Barrels of balsamic vinegar aging

Traditional balsamic vinegar is produced from the juice of just-harvested white grapes, typically, Trebbiano grapes, boiled down to reach a minimum sugar concentration of 30% (brix) or more in the must, which is then fermented with a slow ageing process which further concentrates the flavours. The flavour intensifies over the years, with the vinegar being stored in wooden casks, becoming sweet, viscous and very concentrated. During this period, a portion evaporates: it is said that this is the "angels' share", a term also used in the production of bourbon whiskey, Scotch whisky, wine and other alcoholic beverages.

None of the product may be withdrawn until the end of the minimum aging period of 12 years. At the end of the aging period (12, 18 or 25 years), a small portion is drawn from the smallest cask, and each cask is then topped up with the contents of the preceding (next larger) cask. Freshly reduced cooked must is added to the largest cask, and in every subsequent year, the drawing and topping up process is repeated.[12] This process where the product is distributed from the oldest cask and then refilled from the next oldest vintage cask is called solera or in perpetuum.

Uses

Three desserts in Modena with tradizionale balsamic vinegar. Clockwise from left: zabaione; latte alla portoghese or crème caramel; and panna cotta

In Emilia-Romagna, tradizionale vinegar is most often served in drops on top of chunks of Parmesan and mortadella as an antipasto. It is also used sparingly to enhance steaks, eggs, or grilled fish, as well as on fresh fruit such as strawberries and pears and on plain crema (custard) gelato. It is fairly commonly used as a dressing for caprese or more typical salads. Tradizionale vinegar may be sipped from a tiny glass to conclude a meal.

Contemporary chefs use both Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI sparingly in simple dishes where the balsamic vinegar's complex tastes are highlighted, using it to enhance dishes like scallops or shrimp, or on simple pastas and risotti.

See also

References

  1. ^ "balsamic vinegar". Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary (11th ed.). Merriam-Webster. 2003. p. 95. ISBN 978-0-87779-809-5. Retrieved 2009-10-10.
  2. ^ Richard Steiner (1977). The Case for Fricative Laterals in Proto-Semitic. New Haven: American Oriental Society. pp. 123-129.
  3. ^ Rendsburg, Gary A. (2013–). "Phonology: Biblical Hebrew". In: Encyclopedia of Hebrew Language and Linguistics. Ed. by Geoffrey Khan et al. doi:10.1163/2212-4241_ehll_EHLL_COM_00000676.
  4. ^ Goldenberg, Gideon (2012). Semitic Languages: Features, structures, relations, processes. Oxford: Oxford University, Press. xix+363 pp. ISBN 9780199644919.
  5. ^ Leiden Indo-European Etymological Dictionary Series; 10
  6. ^ Feliks, Jehuda (2007). "Balsam". Encyclopaedia Judaica. Vol. 3 (2nd ed.). Thomson Gale. p. 95.
  7. ^ "The History of Balsamic Vinegar". The Gift of Oil.
  8. ^ "Compare l'aggettivo "balsamico"". Museo Del Balsamico Tradizionalel. Archived from the original on 2012-01-17. Retrieved 2024-07-03.
  9. ^ "The History of Balsamic Vinegar". Balsamico Tradizionale.
  10. ^ a b "eAmbrosia". ec.europa.eu.
  11. ^ Bertolli, Paul (January 2000). "Balsamic Vinegar is Italy's Famed Elixir". Fine Cooking. No. 36. Taunton Press. Archived from the original on 2017-05-01. Retrieved 2022-08-29.
  12. ^ "Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena". Archived from the original on 13 April 2010. Retrieved 2010-03-25.
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